How to Solve Suspension Problems in the Toyota Tazz? (5+ Pro Tips)

In this brief article, we are going to discuss the Toyota Tazz suspension problems, what the causes are, and how these issues can be effectively dealt with.

Top 3 Suspension Problems in the Toyota Tazz suspension

The 3 most common Air Suspension Problems in the Toyota Sequoia are:

  • Front Suspension “Clunk” Noise
  • Front Suspension “Knocking” Noise
  • Front/Rear Suspension Bouncy

Is Toyota Tazz the same as Toyota Corolla?

Yes, in terms of platform, Toyota Tazz and the Corolla are essentially the Corolla E90, or 6th generation of the Corolla product. The Toyota Tazz was the name under which Corolla was manufactured and sold in the South African market. The Corolla’s other product names in South Africa were Carri and Conquest

What suspension does the Toyota Tazz have?

Front Suspension

The front suspension of the Corolla E90 is a MacPherson Strut with Anti Roll Bar

Rear Suspension

The rear suspension of the E90 is a “Semi-Trailing Arm” with Macpherson Struts and Stabilizer Bar

What are the common problems with the Toyota Tazz Suspension?

The most common suspension problems with the Toyota Tazz are:

Front Suspension “Clunk” Noise


  • While going over bumps, there is a distinct “Clunk” noise
  • You can notice that the noise comes from one side

Root Cause:

  • Inspect for all the bushings in the front suspension
  • The most probable source of ‘Clunk’ noise would be the Anti Roll Bar Chassis bushing. When this bushing has worn out, it results in the ARB moving around and causing the noise.


  • Try to find an aftermarket Bushing that has more hardness than the original Bushing. You can check this by comparing the Shore “A” hardness value of the 2 bushings. A Harder bushing will last longer
  • Always use Toyota – recommended “Rubber Grease while replacing the bushing on all the contact surfaces of the bush (inner as well as outer)
  • Using Grease will help to extend the life of the Bushing by preventing excessive wear

Front Suspension “Knocking Noise”


  • While going over even slight bumps, you notice a knocking sort of noise coming from the front end.
  • This sort of noise is generally not there when driving on a smooth road


  • Check the condition of the Shock Absorber, whether you do see any kind of oil stains
  • Check the Stabilizer Bar Chassis bushings. If there is a gap between the bushing and the Stabilizer bar, then this could be a source of noise
  • Check the Stabilizer Bar End-links. Use a pry-bar to see whether you can notice movement within the end-link ball joints. Any play in the ball-joints means a potential source of noise.
  • Check the A-Arm/ Control-Arm Ball Joint with a pry-bar to see if there is any play within.
  • Check the Control-Arm Front and Rear Bushings to see if there is an excessive amount of play.


  • For Nuts/Bolts that have rusted, always soak using Anti-Seize, so that you will avoid stripping the threads during the removal process. (If the threads do strip, then you would be left with no choice other than to cut the bolt. You generally want to avoid such a situation)
  • While tyring to loosen the Ball-joint, DO NOT apply torque directly to the nut. These bolts do come with a center Allen-key hole. Therefore, hold the Bolt in the center using an Allen-key while loosening the nut using a wrench.
  • Always replace the End-link with an aftermarket solution where you can anchor the Ball-joint Stud using a spanner instead of a Allen-key

Front/Rear Suspension Bouncy


  • You notice that while going over bumps or speed-breakers, the suspension tends to “Jump” more than usual
  • After the “Jump” the suspension does not settle immediately

Root Causes:

  • Bounciness generally means that the Damper is not doing its job.
  • Initially you can inspect the dampers and check for any oil leakage stains on the bottom tube of the strut/Damper
  • Shock-absorbers also wear out internally due to age, even though they may not be leaking oil.
  • To check this, you would need to remove each shock-absorber and try to collapse the shock by hand. If it does not offer much resistance and easily compresses, then you can almost be sure that the damper has failed.


  • It would be wise to consider changing your shock-absorbers every 50k to 70k miles, since that is the average life

Other articles about Toyota you may be interested in

Toyota Yaris suspension problems Explained

Is it Easy to Mod a Toyota Corolla?

Toyota Prado Suspension Issues Explained


In this brief article we have discussed the Toyota Tazz suspension problems, what the causes are, and how these issues can be effectively dealt with.